How to Check an IMEI Number Before Buying a Used Phone
Buying a used phone can save you hundreds of dollars — but only if the phone actually works on your carrier and isn't reported lost, stolen, or stuck on someone else's account. The fastest way to find out is an IMEI check, and it takes about two minutes.
This guide walks you through finding the IMEI, running a check, reading the results, and spotting the red flags that should make you walk away from a deal.
What Is an IMEI Number?
IMEI stands for International Mobile Equipment Identity. It's a unique 15-digit serial number assigned to every cellular device — think of it as your phone's fingerprint. No two phones share the same IMEI, which is why carriers, insurers, and resellers use it to track a device's history.
Phones with eSIM support or dual-SIM capability often have two IMEIs (IMEI and IMEI2), one for each cellular connection. When you check a phone, either one will pull up the same device record.
A related number you may see is the MEID — an older 14-digit format. On modern phones, the IMEI is the number that matters.
How to Find the IMEI
There are several ways to look up an IMEI. If you're inspecting a phone in person, use more than one method and make sure the numbers match — more on why below.
1. Dial *#06#
Open the phone app and dial **\*#06#**. The IMEI (and IMEI2, if the phone has one) pops up instantly on virtually every phone — iPhone, Samsung, Pixel, Motorola, you name it. No call connects; the display appears as soon as you type the final #.
This is the most reliable method because it reads the number directly from the phone's hardware.
2. Check the Settings Menu
- iPhone: Go to Settings > General > About and scroll down to the IMEI field. Touch and hold the number to copy it.
- Android (Samsung, Pixel, Motorola): Go to Settings > About phone. The IMEI is usually listed right there; on some models you'll tap Status information or IMEI to see it.
3. Look at the SIM Tray or Back of the Phone
Many phones have the IMEI laser-etched on the SIM tray — most iPhones from the 6s through the 13 use this approach. Some older devices print it on the back of the phone. Note that US iPhone 14 and later models are eSIM-only and have no SIM tray at all, so use \*#06# or Settings instead.
4. Check the Original Box
The IMEI is printed on the barcode label of the retail box. This is handy for verifying a sealed or boxed phone — but never trust the box alone, since boxes and phones get separated (and sometimes deliberately mismatched).
What an IMEI Check Reveals
Once you have the number, an IMEI checker can tell you several things about the device's history and status.
Blacklist Status
When a phone is reported lost or stolen, or when someone stops paying the installment plan it was financed on, carriers flag the IMEI in a shared industry database. A blacklisted phone — sometimes called a "bad ESN" device — can't activate on US carrier networks. It might power on and run Wi-Fi just fine, which is exactly how unsuspecting buyers get burned.
Carrier Lock Status
Many phones are sold locked to the carrier that financed them. A locked phone only works with SIM cards from that carrier until it's paid off and unlocked. An IMEI check can tell you whether the device is unlocked or still tied to AT&T, T-Mobile, Verizon, or another network. If you want to dig deeper on this topic, see our companion guide on how to tell if a phone is unlocked.
Activation Lock (iCloud) and FRP Status
iPhones with Find My enabled carry Activation Lock — the phone is useless to anyone without the previous owner's Apple ID password, even after a factory reset. Android has an equivalent called Factory Reset Protection (FRP), tied to the previous owner's Google account. Some IMEI lookup services report iCloud lock status; for Android FRP, the most reliable test is watching the phone complete its setup screen in front of you without asking for a previous account.
Model and Spec Verification
An IMEI lookup decodes the device's exact model, storage capacity, color, and original region of sale. If a seller lists a 256GB iPhone but the IMEI decodes to a 128GB model, you've caught a misrepresentation before money changed hands.
Free IMEI Check Tools
You don't need to pay for a basic check. Here's where to look:
- imei.info — a free general-purpose lookup that decodes the model and offers blacklist and carrier checks.
- T-Mobile's IMEI status check — on T-Mobile's website, the bring-your-own-device checker confirms whether a phone is compatible and clean on their network.
- AT&T's device compatibility checker — verifies the IMEI will activate on AT&T.
- Verizon's bring-your-own-device check — enter the IMEI during the "bring your own device" flow to see if Verizon will accept it.
A smart approach: run the IMEI through the carrier you actually plan to use. Their answer is the one that matters, because each carrier checks against its own records plus the shared blacklist database.
Red Flags Before You Buy
Run through this checklist before handing over cash for any used phone:
- The seller won't share the IMEI. There's no legitimate reason to refuse. A serious seller expects this question.
- The IMEIs don't match. The number from \*#06#, the Settings menu, the SIM tray, and the box should all be identical. A mismatch can indicate a swapped logic board, a counterfeit, or a box used to dress up a sketchy phone.
- The phone is blacklisted or has a "bad ESN." Walk away. It cannot be legitimately activated on US networks.
- There's an outstanding balance. A phone still being paid off can be blacklisted later if the seller stops paying — even if it's clean today.
- Activation Lock or FRP is still on. Insist on watching the seller sign out of iCloud or remove their Google account, then complete a factory reset in front of you.
- The deal is too good. A flagship at half the going rate, sold in a hurry, with no IMEI shared — that pattern exists for a reason.
The Safer Alternative: Buy Pre-Verified
Every check above exists because private-party sales carry risk. If you'd rather skip the detective work, buy from a seller who has already done it. At Device Giant, every device in our tested and working collection is verified functional before it ships, and our grading and damage standards spell out exactly what condition to expect — no surprises.
Browse our renewed iPhones and iPads or renewed Samsung Galaxy smartphones if you want the used-phone savings without the used-phone gamble.
FAQ
Is it safe to give someone my IMEI number?
Sharing an IMEI with a genuine buyer is normal and generally low-risk — it's how trust gets established in used phone sales. That said, don't post it publicly on forums or social media, since bad actors have abused IMEIs to file false lost/stolen reports or attempt fraudulent unlocks.
Can a blacklisted phone be unblacklisted?
Only by the carrier that flagged it, and only when the underlying issue is resolved — for example, the original owner pays off the balance or withdraws a loss report. As a buyer, you can't fix it yourself, so treat a blacklisted phone as a parts device, not a usable phone.
What's the difference between an IMEI and a serial number?
The serial number is the manufacturer's internal identifier; the IMEI is the cellular industry's identifier. Carriers and blacklist databases work off the IMEI. Apple's warranty and coverage lookups use the serial number. For a used phone purchase, the IMEI check is the one that protects you.
Do tablets and smartwatches have IMEI numbers?
Only cellular models do. A Wi-Fi-only iPad or watch has a serial number but no IMEI, because it never connects to a carrier network. If you're buying a cellular tablet or LTE smartwatch, check its IMEI just as you would a phone's.
Will an IMEI check tell me if a phone is iCloud locked?
Some third-party checkers report Activation Lock status, but results aren't always current. The most dependable method is hands-on: factory reset the phone (or watch the seller do it) and confirm it reaches the setup screen without demanding a previous owner's Apple ID.
Does a factory reset change the IMEI?
No. The IMEI is burned into the phone's hardware and survives resets, software updates, and SIM changes. That permanence is exactly why it's the standard tool for verifying a used phone's history.
